
The chalk cliffs that run between Flamborough Head and Bempton are the single best place in England to watch seabirds from dry land. Nowhere else on the mainland do so many birds pack themselves onto such accessible ledges, and nowhere else can you stand on a grassy clifftop with a flask of tea and watch gannets plunge into the sea below you.
During the breeding season these cliffs hold tens of thousands of birds. The reason is simple geography: soft chalk erodes into ledges and crevices, the surrounding North Sea is rich in sandeels and herring, and the headland juts far enough east to intercept birds moving along the coast. You do not need a boat, a hide or a permit. A pair of decent binoculars, a windproof jacket and a steady head for heights will do.
Bempton is the headline act, and it deserves the reputation. Between April and July the cliff faces are heaving with life, and the viewing platforms along the clifftop path put you within metres of the action.
Gannets are the stars for sheer drama. Britain holds most of the world's population, and the colony here has grown steadily over recent decades. Watch for their fishing technique: a folded dive from thirty metres up, hitting the water like a thrown spear. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see feeding flights, when adults return to feed hungry chicks.
Puffins are smaller, quieter and far more fleeting. They arrive in mid-April and are usually gone by the second week of July. Look for them sitting outside burrows on the grassy slopes, or rafting on the sea in loose groups before they fly in. Their orange legs and rainbow bills are unmistakable, but they are quick — a telescope helps enormously.
Elsewhere on the cliffs you will find razorbills, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars and the occasional shag. The noise is extraordinary, particularly the kittiwakes, whose calls give them their name.
Flamborough Head sits just along the coast and offers a different experience. The cliffs are taller and more broken here, with sea caves, stacks and the white lighthouse standing above it all. It is less developed than Bempton, with fewer facilities, and you will walk further between viewpoints — but the rewards are real.
Kittiwakes nest in dense, noisy clusters on the narrowest ledges, and the cliffs at North Landing and Selwicks Bay hold good numbers of guillemots and razorbills. Fulmars glide along the cliff edge on stiff wings, looking almost like small albatrosses. In late spring, listen for the eerie, purring calls coming from burrows in the turf — those are puffins, and there are more of them here than most visitors realise.
The headland is also excellent for watching seabird movement offshore. On a calm day with a light onshore breeze, you can pick out gannets, manx shearwaters and the occasional skua moving north.
Spring and early summer are when the cliffs are at their most rewarding. The season unfolds roughly like this:
Weather matters as much as dates. Seabirds sit tight on the cliffs in wet, windy conditions and can be hard to see against the rock. Calm, dry days with good light are far better. An onshore breeze pushes birds closer inshore, but strong easterlies can make the clifftop paths genuinely dangerous.
A little preparation makes a big difference on these cliffs.
The coast between Filey and Bridlington holds plenty of quieter spots if you want to escape the crowds. Filey Brigg is a good low-tide vantage point for waders and roosting seabirds, while the shoreline around Speeton and Reighton offers a quieter walk with occasional views of passing gannets. Further north, Scarborough and Whitby give you a different angle entirely, and the opportunity to combine birdwatching with a decent cup of tea and a plate of fish and chips.
Wherever you stop, take your time. The cliffs here reward patience far more than a quick glance. Sit down, get comfortable, and let the noise and movement of the colony wash over you. It is one of the great free spectacles of the British coast.
Harvest sustainably, rinse thoroughly and try adding dulse or kelp to soups, salads and bread for a savoury taste of the coast.
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ALina Kelian
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